IKEA Samla 22L | Drybox | Silica tray and spool holder.

Background

While I'm a graphic designer with experience in 3D, I'm new to 3D printing.

I went on a magic wonder ride, learning and experiencing the amazing capability of 3D printing.

But of course, I needed to take care of the material I was using. Thankfully, I didn't have to spend a few hundred to learn the lesson that we can create our own, and better dry boxes, for much less money.

I discovered some incredible creations on Printables and other sites. Lots of things I downloaded just to see how they were done.

I was learning. And, I thought, there are a lot of great creations out there, but why not learn from them and create my own solution? For no other reason but for the experience. To go from idea to physical creation in your hand.

That was just too tempting.

I needed a quick drybox while I was waiting for the delivery of bearings and stainless steel rods. So, I took from a lot of amazing creations to build a 100% 3D-printed drybox.

I was actually surprised by how well the 3D-printed bearings and rollers performed. With a bit of grease, they roll. Sure, they're printed, so they might not be long-wearing, but this is not a hard-wearing application, and we can easily print replacements very inexpensively.

Then I discovered that 608zz bearings were super cheap. I sourced 150mm and 300mm stainless steel rods, not so cheap. But, I went all in on this next version.

Version 0.2 with the 150mm rods was ok. But I didn't like how the rollers/spools were not evenly spaced. I have a slight case of CDO.

So, I abandoned the 150mm rods for the 300mm, and I was able to achieve better results.

This layout is for 650mm spools.

While learning 3D printing, I did lots of Christmas decorations. Easy things. However, this was the first creation where I had to think about exact measurements and tolerances.

While I've had to make changes to the design, I'm really happy with the end result so far.

I have it active in 4 x 22L tubs, holding 16 x spools, with no issues.

-

Material Choices

In this build, I used different materials that I thought would be best suited. But I over-engineered it. Or rather, I underestimated how much basic PLA is ok.

I went on an exploration of materials. Elegoo is the all-around best, in my opinion. With sales, deals and bundles, you can get a spool for under €9. But most of all, it prints without issues. You can set a print off, walk away and be confident when you come back that it will print as expected. That's valuable. I never got that from Prusa's materials.

The end finish of the Elegoo material is nice. Their PLA and PLA+ has a nice sheen to them, not horribly shiny (like buddy3d). And their matte material is just beautiful.

I did originally print the roller in TPU, but honestly, PLA is fine. It works.

Use whatever materials you feel comfortable with.

The design is pretty robust.

-

Assembly advice.

Take two tray pieces and two wedges. Place the trays together and press the wedges in. The print lines help keep it in place.

Press all rollers on to bearings.

Take the 300mm rod. Place spacers and bearings in order.

2mm Spacer. Bearing. 56mm Spacer. Bearing. 3mm Spacer. Bearing. 56mm Spacer. Bearing. 3mm Spacer. Bearing. 56mm Spacer. Bearing. 3mm Spacer. Bearing. 56mm Spacer. Bearing. 2mm Spacer.

Repeat for both sides.

Place rod assemblies on to tray.

Place whole assembly into tub with two hands, holding posts.

-

Sourced Parts

I have no affiliation with these companies. If you know of a better source, please let me know.

300mm L 8mm D Stainless Steel Rod - https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/metal-bars-metal-rods/7866015?searchId=7534aadd-6621-46cb-bfef-8258cc9d0466

608zz Bearings - https://www.3djake.ie/3djake/ball-bearing?sai=33703

-

Closing Thoughts