FPV Ace Pro, Insta360 TPU Drone Mounts, Max FOV

*Companion project to my other parametric configurable FPV designs: *

| [O3 Pod](https://www.printables.com/model/381833) | [O3 Frame](https://www.printables.com/model/555104-dji-o3-camera-frame-maximal-lens-protection-minima) | [Action2](https://www.printables.com/model/217897), [3+4](https://www.printables.com/model/726658) | [AcePro](https://www.printables.com/model/726602) | [GoPro Mini](https://www.printables.com/model/324369-gopro-11-mini-drone-mount-any-drone-any-tilt-any-n) | [Hero 9-12](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6507411) | [Antenna Mount](https://www.printables.com/model/451006-the-fpv-antenna-project-universal-configurable-fpv) |

Go see this project **[on printables](https://www.printables.com/model/726602)** for more example files, all nicely organized by manufacturer!

### My Newest Bando-Safe Design: Insta360 Ace Pro

Only basic 10º versions are uploaded here. Everything else is made ***on-demand*****! **All **ND filter versions, tilt options, positioning, vertical/horizontal variations** are made on-demand when you message me:

- *Join my *[***3D Design discord***](https://3d.t413.com/go/discord?tv.a2)*! * - *All requests are optionally donation-supported, on-demand!* - *Response within 24h!* - *Please read the "steps" below first!* - Please, no dms. They're much harder to organize, reply-to and will take a few weeks. - Use my discord!

Thingiverse page is WIP

### Max FOV Design

Just like all other FPV designs in [my profile](https://www.printables.com/@t4obrien), this is designed by modeling the FOV of the camera! Maximum protection, nothing in view.

This is part of my on-demand *alive* 3D design projects. See the table above and! I've made *thousands *of designs and new friends for pilots all across the globe.

### Maximum protection, bando-bash all day and keep it pretty!

Need a standard gopro-style attachment version? I can make that for you as well!

**It's not remotely possible** to upload *every tilt* for *every frame* with *each ND* option and *each positioning*. That would be thousands of files.. and they change every time I get new feedback. My designs are *alive*, they're always evolving. Plus it's great hearing from people and seeing the builds I helped make.

Get the version configured for you: just follow the steps!

### Step 1: Pick your quad(s)

What quad you got?? I've made a highly flexible, adaptive system, with over 125 different bases, new ones every day. See the [files on my Action2 design](https://www.printables.com/model/217897/files) for some common ones!

### Step 2: Pick your uptilt angle(s)

- Cinewhoops: 10-20º - Cinematic/Long Range: 20º - Freestyle: 25-35º - Racing: 40º+

### Step 3: Pick your ND Filter (or none!)


1. Badass all-around TBS-style plate-glass 1. 2.5mm thick filters [[tbs site](https://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:ndfilter_nd16)] Also compatible with the similar 2.5mm thick Camera Butter insert filters. 2. Held in from top and bottom notches, inserted from either side. 3. Also works *great* without filters (and even provides extra protection over no-ND option). The most flexible option! 2. Optional: *overkill* TBS-style 1. It's bigger, heavier, sometimes less durable since it's got a dedicated slot. 2. Makes camera install/removal much more difficult. 3. Lens-replacement style 1. These don't need anything special, just replace the lens with a darker one! 4. Over-Lens NDs 1. Works.. just gigantic, less protective, and usually expensive. 2. Leaves a huge gap when filming without the ND

All ND versions/tilts *are **configured on-demand***! See **Step 7**!

### Step 4: Camera Positioning

1. **Standard** - Props probably in view - Full size underbelt slot (see below. adds extra protection option and reduces vibration / image jello) - Your quad's frame takes head-on impacts, camera hits second. 2. **Forward** - Props hidden (depending on frame) - Small underbelt slot (if any) - Camera is more exposed. Less great for bando bashing.. but also this mount offers *lots of protection*. 3. **Extra Forward** - Props definitely hidden - No underbelt slot option. - Camera is very exposed out-front. Probably not best for bando bashing but great for cinematic.

### Step 5: Bolts & Base Options

- Base Thickness: - Standard is **now 3.4mm thick**. - Thick is 4mm - Bolt style: - Standard size for M3 bolts is a 6mm diameter bolt-head. - Perfect for nearly all M3 bolts and plenty strong. - Big-Boltz, for M3 bolts, has a 8mm diameter bolt head. - Great for things like these [FPV Countersunk Washers](https://pyrodrone.com/products/m3-countersunk-washer-1-pc) if you want extra strength/flair. - Shoulder-bolts option. - Great for products like the [QuadMula PS-3 Spacers](https://quadmula.com/products/ps-3-profile-spacer) that come with the Quadmula frames.

### Step 6: Extra configuration options

1. ***Underbelt*** slot allows for an optional battery strap around the camera for extra ejection protection and slightly more front-end hit protection. 1. Also seems to really reduce jello by allowing for a smaller area for vibration transmission to pass through. Great! 2. Not included by default on standard mounts. 2. Extra **base thickness** 1. Beware: older designs uploaded here are only 2.2mm! 2. Standard is **now 3.4mm thick**. 3. Ultra thick is 4mm thick. 3. Different camera wall size

### Step 7: Request the STL!

Send me a message on [discord](https://3d.t413.com/go/discord?tv.a2)! Haven't found a better way to get y'all your STLs yet! Everything is generated on-demand with the settings you ask for. Why?

1. The STLs in the 'files' section are outdated. - I can't possibly keep re-exporting, uploading, and organizing 80+ STLs after each tweak! 2. They don't have the configuration you want. - ND filters? Angle that's not 25º? Underbelt option? Thicker base? - I can't possibly upload all the variations!

So request it! I've set up my discord as a cool queue system. I'll get you your custom STL in less than 24h, usually right away.

### Step 8: PRINT THE LCD PROTECTOR

Print the `back glass protector 0.8mm.stl` in something rigid (like PLA) and glue it into the recessed spot on the back of the mount.

Why? In hard crashes the battery can crack the LCD through several mm of TPU since the force isn't distributed by the flexible material. It needs a '*rigid TPU sandwich*'! It's the light and strong way to protect your LCD!

Cracked LCDs can happen with insanely hard hits. My "*rigid TPU sandwich" *only goes so far. Fill any gap between your battery and camera with foam.. it'll save your battery and your LCD.

### Step 9: Print the Mount

- Print with TPU filament, slowly - Use tree support if your slicer supports it - Best printed **on its side** (as oriented in the STL). - Use **2 perimeter walls** for most setups. 3 walls for bando bashing. - Infill: Use 20 - 30% **cubic infill** - 15 - 20% for most setups - 25 - 30%  infill for bando bashing - Really don't go above 30% infill, it just adds extra weight but no strength benefit.

*Also look at the makes section for other users' tips!*

> ### That's it! Go fly!