Bambu H2 series, X2D and P2S Accessory Case V2.0

5/26/2026:  The X2D Update is finally here, you can find the X2D parts in the profiles (it's named "BFS_V2_R8D_X2D_PARTS_MW.3mf).

This is the second (newest) version of my configurable accessory case for the Bambu H2 series, and the P2S.  It includes the following updates and improvements over the v1.1 case :

- New bins and labels for the H2C, H2D, H2S, X2D and P2S added. - Updated the TPU gasket design to the latest version. - Updated the latch design to remove the need for several screws. - Updated the inside sliding latches to require no hardware (they now snap together). - Updated the case handle for better printability. - New design options for the patterns on the exterior of the case. - New hotend label design which improves readability of the labels, and allows them to be switched out without removing the bins. I recommend using PETG for the latches (just the U shaped parts, not the parts that snap into the case).  PETG is also preferred for the small bin doors too (but they also can be made using PLA).  Everything else can be made using PLA.  If using the filaments in the BOM, note that the black PETG basic is for the latches.

I have fully tested the H2C, P2S and X2D versions of the bins, as well as the common files for the case.  The designs for the other models have either been derived from fully tested prior designs for this case, or they have been validated through testing the elements which are unique for the printers.  For example, the P2S spare parts holder elements were tested with the help of a kind community P2S owner, using small individual part test models, to verify the fit of the spares unique to the P2S.  There is also a good deal of crossover in spares parts between spares for these printers, which has also helped with testing.   I have not however printed full cases for the H2D or H2S cases, since I do not own those printers (I own an H2C and X1C).

I feel that the models here will work well for all the printers specified, and I feel they have been tested sufficiently.  But if you find anything that can be improved, or have a suggestion for the next update, please PM me or post a comment, thanks!

Since this one design has options to support the H2D, H2S, H2C, X2D or P2S, I've decided to break up the many different files into five profiles.  The first profile contains the case parts which are common to all the different printer options, while the other four profiles contain the parts specific for each model of printer.  Therefore, in order to print this design, you will need to use the "Common Parts" profile for the case parts, and the printer specific profile for the bins specific to your model of printer.  If using the profile with a different printer than the H2C, I recommend that you verify that the location of the prime tower will not interfere or overlap with the print (especially on the P2S).  I may add a P2S specific profile in the future, with the only change being the locations of the prime towers.

In addition to the printer model specific profiles, there is a profile with just the hotend labels .  This profile has labels for just about every hotend type I could think of, so if you don't find a label for your hotend in the printer specific profiles, check the one with just the labels to see if it may be in there.

Additionally, as of 5/26/2026, I added a profile with a couple small latching cases which are designed to hold spare labels (see pics below).  That way you can print a bunch of labels and keep them on hand in case you buy more hotends in the future.  There are two sizes of these label cases, and they should fit into any of the compartments of the case.

Below is an image of the “Common Parts” profile, with a description of the highlighted parts below:

- A.   These are the case top and bottom shells.  There are five different designs you can choose from (rotate the profile to see it from below to get a view of the designs).  Each design is arranged in a column, and includes two types of lids as explained in “B” below. - B.  Each case design has two lid options, one has a TPU gasket, and one does not.  The TPU gasket versions are circled in blue.  The TPU gasket is on plate 20 by itself.   I recommend using an engineering plate for the gasket, if you have one (but use whichever plate you think works best for TPU).   Note that the TPU gasket version will not make the case water tight, there are too many variables to that. I think the gasket helps though. But don't expect to dunk this case, and have everything stay dry. - C. The snap in latch inserts on plate 16 are requried for each case.  These are set to print with more walls and infill than the other parts. - D. I reccommend using the slide latches on plate 22, since the tabs latch closed.  That can help to avoid the latch tabs flopping open when closing the case lid.  The non-latching type on plate 21 are included in case you have any trouble with the latching type. - E.   This is an optional medium sized bin, which can be used in place of a hotend holder. - F.  Plate 25 contains an optional latch clasp, which is shorter than the version on plate 19.  These can be used if you feel the case needs a tighter latch.  If using these however, be careful not to force them closed if they seem overly tight, since that could damage the case.

In the printer specific profiles, you will find a couple different bin module options for the bottom shell of the case, with various accessory layouts.

I understand that having to use a minimum of two profiles to build the case can be a bit of a pain.  But this is a somewhat complex design to build profiles for, and will be a challenge to manage, so I feel this is the best way to go.  Splitting the parts into profiles this way will also allow me to update or add new profiles without rebuilding a very large single profile each time.

Materials:

This will require some M3 hardware to assemble. Specifically, it requires the following screws:

(1) M3 x 10mm SHCS

(2) M3 x 10mm FHCS (Optional)

(12) M3 x 20mm SHCS

(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS  or  (2) M3x50mm SHCS

(2) M3 x 30mm SHCS

(?) 8x3 Cylinder Magnets (See note below)

BHCS = Button Head Cap Screws

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screws

FHCS = Flat Head Cap Screws

The case also requires some magnets.  The quantity depends on how many hotend holders are used.   Each hotend requires one 8x3mm cylinder magnet.   Alternatively, on the H2/P2 hotends only, a 8x8x8 cube magnet can be used in place of the 8x3 cylinder magnets.  Additionally, the optional large compartment door with the Allen key holder requires four 8x3mm cylinder magnets.

There is also an optional case label on plate 19 (with the handle), which is designed to be used with 18mm Brother P-Touch Labels .  You can also use the blank label with your own text (using the slicer), or you can use one of the multicolor labels for the P2S, H2S, H2D or H2C.  The printer specific labels can be found in the printer specific profiles.

Tips on building it:

I recommend using safety glasses since there are a few parts that must snap in place.

You will need some long Allen keys for the M3 SHCS screws.  I use a cordless screwdriver with a long (100mm) ball end H2.5 bit, which really speeds up building these cases (see below).  I have built them with standard Allen keys though, and they also work.

Step 1:  Install the TPU gasket (which is optional)

If printing the gasket version of the base, I recommend that you test that your printer and buildplate can run TPU without issues first.  I suggest using 95A or 98A TPU, since it is a bit stiffer and should feed better than the really “noodly” stuff.

To install the TPU gasket, the cap of a sharpie is the tool I use to press the TPU gasket into place (see pic).  Start by pressing in the middle of the gasket along all 4 sides (or you can press in each corner), then once it's set in position, press in the rest of the gasket.

Step 2: Assemble the hinges

The hinges require the following parts:

(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS (or 2 M3x50mm SHCS for the hinges)

A long ball end Allen key or long H2.5 driver bit will be very helpful for assembling the hinges (I use a 100mm H2.5 bit with a cordless screwdriver).  If using a power screwdriver, go slow, otherwise the friction of the screw going into the plastic could cause the screw to melt the plastic and veer off course.  If you have M3x50mm screws, you can use a shorter bit and just drive the screws in from the outside in one pass per side, which is bit easier.

Step 3: Install the handle

The handle requires the following parts:

(2) M3 x 20mm SHCS

The case handle installs on the bottom shell (base) of the case with two M3x20mm SHCS screws.

Step 4: Assemble the latches