BoneSentry—Motorcycle Helmet, Jacket&GearWallMount

Axis Gear Works — AxisGearWorks on MakerWorld · Rev A

A helmet doesn't sit anywhere well. On a shelf it takes the whole shelf. On a peg it hangs by the strap and slowly takes the shape of the peg. On the bench it's one elbow away from the floor. Meanwhile the jacket is over a chair, the keys are in a bowl in the other room, and the sunglasses are wherever you set them down.

Bone Sentry puts all four in one place on one wall, and the thing holding them is a human skull on a spike. Helmet crown-down on a wide domed pad, jacket on a hanger through the bracket, keys in a tray that clamps to the front, and sunglasses held on the skull's own face by three soft TPU pieces — one in the nose, one on each cheekbone. Eight parts off four plates in two filaments, no AMS and no purge tower — every color boundary here is a part boundary.

Features

- The pad is a dome, not a peg. ⌀98.6 mm crown, so the helmet rests on the shell around the crown ring instead of hanging by the strap or pressing a point into the EPS. Full-face, modular or open-face. - The pad slides on — nothing to tighten, nothing to strip. The post carries a 45° dovetail and the pad has the matching blind socket. Slide it back on, it bottoms out on its own, and the undercut stops it lifting off under load. No threads, no tap, no torque, no cross-threading. - The joint is invisible. The dovetail is cut into the underside and rear of the pad. From the front and from both sides all you see is a collar meeting a post. - You can assemble it on the wall. Bracket up first, skull down the post, pad slides on last — no wrestling a loaded assembly onto four screws. - The jacket hangs off the bracket, not off the skull. A hanger hooks through the opening in the bracket's lower body — 20 mm of clearance for the hook , plenty for a wire hanger and enough for most molded plastic ones. It's the opening nearest the wall on purpose: the short moment arm puts a heavy leather jacket where the bracket is stiffest instead of out at the end of the arm. - Keys tray clamp on with one screw. Two halves straddle the bracket, tongue through the front opening, and pull together with a single M4 screw and nut. Both halves are on the plate. - Sunglasses get three points of contact. A TPU plug presses into the nasal opening and gives you a saddle for the bridge. Two more TPU clips press onto the cheekbones and put a wide saddle under each arm. Printed black they disappear, and the skull still reads as a skull from across the garage. - It fits a normal printer. The plates are laid out to drop into a 256 × 256 × 256 mm build volume. Assembly

🔩 It slides together.

- Mount the bracket on the wall first. The joint is designed to be assembled in place. - Drop the skull down the post. It's bored to clear it. - Slide the helmet pad back onto the dovetail until it stops. The socket is blind — it bottoms out by itself, centred over the post. Snug is by design; a little hand pressure is normal, and light sanding of the groove is fine if your printer runs tight. - Optional: wick thin CA into the joint if you want it permanent. It doesn't need glue to hold, but glue means it never gets bumped loose either.

Key tray: the two halves go either side of the bracket, tongue through the front opening, and one M4 × 25 mm screw with a nut pulls them together.

Nose rest: press it into the nasal opening by hand. It's TPU — it wants to squeeze in and stay.

Temple rests: press one onto each cheekbone arch. They're split underneath so they clip over the bone, and the saddle on top faces up and outward to catch the arm of the glasses. Left and right are handed — check before you push.

Wall mounting

⚠️ Studs, not drywall anchors. A helmet, a loaded jacket and a handful of keys is real weight hanging 160-odd mm off the wall, and the arm multiplies it at the fasteners.

Four #8 wood screws — two at the top of the plate, two at the bottom, 161 mm apart vertically .

The top two holes are drilled at 35°, and that's the whole reason the backplate looks the way it does. Straight-in screws at the top put your driver exactly where the back of the cranium is, and there's no getting a bit in there once the skull is on the post. Angling those counterbores 35° lets an ordinary driver clear the skull completely — and the plate is 15 mm thick specifically to give the angled 9 mm counterbores somewhere to live. The first version was thinner and better looking, and could not be mounted.

Print Settings

The included profile is built for the H2D with a 0.6 nozzle and has all of this baked in, per part.

Part Walls Infill Filament

Skull 4 5% gyroid Rigid — variable layer height applied

Bracket, helmet pad, key tray halves 5 25% gyroid Rigid

Nose rest 3 10% gyroid TPU 95A

Temple rests (×2) 3 25% gyroid TPU 95A

🧵 Filament mapping is simple: rigid, then soft. Everything structural — skull, bracket, helmet pad, key tray — prints in PLA, PETG or PETG-CF , whichever you prefer. Matte PLA gives the best show finish; PETG or PETG-CF if it lives in a hot garage. The only parts that must be TPU 95A are the nose rest and the two temple rests , and they share a plate.

Setting Value

Infill pattern Gyroid throughout

Build volume Every plate fits 256 × 256 × 256 mm

Supports Tree, on build plate only

⚙️ Leave supports on "build plate only." It keeps them out of the dovetail socket and out of the skull's bore, where they'd only be a nuisance to dig back out. The place the model genuinely wants support is inside the bracket's two gusset openings, and build-plate-only still puts it there.

⚠️ Scale uniformly or not at all. The dovetail and the M4 clearance hole both stop mating the moment one axis moves on its own.

Color Guide

Part Suggested color

Skull Bone White / Matte Ivory

Bracket + post Matte Charcoal / Black

Helmet pad Matte Charcoal / Black

Key tray halves (×2) Matte Charcoal / Black

Nose bridge rest Black TPU 95A

Temple rests (×2) Black TPU 95A

🎨 No AMS needed — and no CFS either if you're on a Creality. Each plate is a single filament, so a plain single-extruder printer gives the same result with no purge waste and no filament changes mid-print. Charcoal for everything but the skull is the point: the bone reads as bone because the hardware around it doesn't compete with it.

Parts & Plates

Plate Part Qty Filament

1 Skull — bored for the post ×1 Bone, rigid