Week Clock (with 3D printed face)

A clock to give you the vaguest idea of what the time is.

This is an analogue clock that rotates once per week, with a single hand.

Assembly instructions:

- Place nuts into hexagonal groves on ‘clock sides’ (a small amount of glue may be necessary however I did not need any) - Insert clockface into ‘clock sides’ (hot glue around inside perimeter to keep it in place) - clock face may need to be printed in two parts and held together with the days insert. - Securely glue ‘battery casing’ to gear platform. - Insert purchased reverse clock mechanism into ‘battery casing’ (make sure it is battery side down so the battery lines up with the opening on the back of ‘battery casing’. I secured the nut and washer that came with the mechanism to the outside of ‘battery casing’ to keep the mechanism in place. - Use ‘plug’ and ‘plug with short pin’ to secure ‘G2_20 tooth’ - Use ‘plug’ and ‘plug with long pin’ to secure ‘G3_10+20 tooth. - Insert ‘70 tooth SECOND PIN’ through ‘G4_70 tooth’ and into ‘70 tooth PIN’ (fasten in place with a spot of glue, this could all be printed as one part but would need a large area to be supported so I chose to split it up) - Insert ‘G4_70 tooth’ into its hole in the centre of ‘gear platform 1’ - Attach ‘G1_10 tooth’ to the HOUR HAND/CYCLINDER of the purchased clock mechanism. - Secure ‘gear platform’ to ‘clock back’ (double sided tape or weak glue will be fine of this'. - ‘Clock back’ can be inserted into ‘clock sides’ and screwed into place. Points to note:

- ‘Battery casing’ and ‘Gear platform 1’ should be secured together with strong glue. - 2 of the part named ‘Plug’ will be needed - The gear teeth have been scaled down by 0.98 as at full size there was too much friction when meshing for the weak clock motor to overcome. - ‘Clock sides’ and ‘Clock Back’ were too large for my printer, therefore I broke them up into parts named, ‘Clock sides part 1’, ‘clock sides part 2’, ‘clock sides part 3’, and ‘clock back part 1’, and ‘clock back part 2’ and glued them together. If ‘Clock sides’ and ‘Clock Back’ fit on your printer or you scale this clock down then the broken down parts will not be needed. - To make the clock run smoother, I added a 5mm thick ring of foam (from a packaging foam sheet) to ‘gear platform 1’ underneath ‘G4_70 tooth’ so G4 wouldn't wobble and loose alignment/meshing with G3. - Additionally, 5 short screws (approx. 10 mm), nuts of size M4, and 4 bearings (ID: 4mm, OD: 10mm, Thickness: 4 mm), will be needed as well as a REVERSE/BARBER SHOP clock mechanism.