Anton Firsik's Forest-Themed Side Panels for the Modular Lantern

This is Anton Firsik's improved version of the forest-themed side panels for the modular lantern. I created various variants, from an easy two-colour to a complex five-colour print. The side panels can be printed on any 3D printer using filament changes.

On this page, you only find the files for the side panels. You need the frame elements to construct a functional lantern. You can download these model files here: Modular Lantern Framework

See more of Anton’s work at: https://www.behance.net/firsik

Requirements

- A 3D printer like a Prusa MINI or Prusa i3 MK3S+ or similar. - A 0.4mm nozzle is required for these side panels because of the fine details. - Opaque and transparent filaments in the colours you like. - You must print the frame parts to create a lantern from the side panels. You can download these model files here: Modular Lantern Framework How to Print the Side Panels

I prepared an example file LR2268-10-forest-G Print.3mf , where you can see how a three-colour print is correctly set up. To prepare it using another slicer software, look at the settings table below, or follow the next steps.

- Start by selecting the side panel variant you like to use. In the section “Select a Side Panel Variant”, you will find all the details on choosing the best variant for you.

- Import the four side panels of the selected variant ( A - M ) into the slicer and arrange them on the printer bed as shown below:

- First, adjust the main parameters for the print:

- Select 0.15mm layer height (0.2mm for the first layer). - Select your filament, PETG or PLA. - Make sure the correct printer is selected. - Set the infill to 100%.

- In the advanced or expert settings: - Enable “Thick bridges” if you have this option and if your selected variant requires bridging. - Adjust the “Bridging angle” to 180º or any angle that creates the following result.

- Next, add as many colour changes as you like. - You will find the correct heights for the colour changes in the layout diagram for your chosen panel variant. - Anton created the illustrations for two colours and the frame colour, usually some black filament. You will also find the suggested colours in the layout diagram.

- If your slicer supports layer height changes, add them to switch at 2.00m from 0.15mm to 0.2mm layer heights. This will increase the print speed and optimise the hooks' geometry on the side panels. Print Settings Table

Parameter Description

Nozzle Size: Optimised for 0.4mm , larger nozzles will not work!

Layer Height: Optimised for 0.15mm and 0.2mm

Filament Materials: PETG recommended PLA works

Perimeters: Two perimeters

Prusa Slicer Profile: “0.15mm Quality”

Variants with Bridging: Set the bridging angle to 90º or 180º, so the bridging layer is printed horizontally over the side image.

Safety Precautions for Using Real Candles

Using real candles with the lantern requires caution and proper handling, especially when using PLA or PETG filaments, and both materials pose certain risks when exposed to heat or open flames.

PLA is particularly susceptible to melting and igniting when exposed to high temperatures. Once ignited, it does not stop burning easily, posing a significant fire hazard. PETG filaments, on the other hand, have higher melting points and are generally more flame-resistant. However, some PETG filaments may still burn easily.

To minimize risks when using real candles with the lantern:

- Always use a flame-resistant material between the candle and the lantern. This can be a glass or ceramic holder, which serves as a protective layer when the candle burns down completely. - Monitor the lantern closely while the candle is lit, and never leave it unattended. Place the lantern on a non-flammable surface, away from any flammable materials, to prevent the spread of fire in case of an accident. - Consider using flameless LED candles as a safer alternative to real candles. Select a Side Panel Variant

In the file section, you will find various variants of the side panels. While they all show the same illustrations, the layer layout is different. It means that the variants have a different number of layers for individual colours. Also, this particular design has variants that support three different kinds of bridging.

A PDF with a catalogue of all variants is in the file section. There each variant is named with a letter A - M and you find a layout diagram that shows how the model is built.

Let's have a look at one of these layer diagrams:

The diagram shows a side cut through the final print. On the left side, the Y-axis shows the layer heights as you used to see them in slicer software.

The height of the first layer is 0.2mm, and then all further layers have a size of 0.15mm until the height of 2.0mm, where the layer height changes back to 0.2mm.

In the X-axis, you see the stacking of the layers for a particular colour in the design. As you can see, the frame parts are created by printing layers for all colours from the printer bed up to the height of 2.4mm, where the frame stops.

Also, for this variant, you see that the two red features of the illustration are printed directly on the printer bed with two and four layers, but there is an air gap under the two green features. This gap needs bridging, which requires some experience.

More Details in the Catalogue

In the catalogue PDF, you also find further helpful information, like a table with the exact heights and the correct numbers where to place the colour changes in the slicer software.

The Three Bridging Variants

The variants can be grouped into three bridging variants:

Name Variants Description

No bridging A , B , C , D These variants are printed solid with no bridging involved. Therefore these are easy prints that work on every printer. The downside is because transparent colours mix when printed on top of each other, you are limited in the colour palette you can use.

If you only plan to use one transparent colour and the colour for the frame, these variants are the best choice.

Bridging large gaps E , F , G , H To create the best-looking prints (as shown in my photos), you can print the sides with the primary colours (reds) stacked on the printer bed and the secondary colours (greens), bridging large gaps.