Creality K1, K1c, K1 Max & K2 SE Door Hinges Geared Print in Place

Why you need this:

This is a beautiful print in place set of hinges that will enable your door to open completely. The geared hinge is better design choice because the two pivot points can hug the chamfered frame with a tighter profile.

Will these fit your K1, K1c, K1 Max & K2 SE?

Yes, But choose the correct files to print. Measure the distance between the screws in the corners of the side panels. The original K1 and the K1 max were about 65 mm (~2.75 inch) apart.

The K1c (and newer K1) those screws are about 20 mm (~¾ of an inch) apart.

BOM (Bill of Materials):

- Printed parts

- 4x M3 10 mm screws

- 4x M3 14 mm screws

- 4x M3 Nylon Lock nuts (or M3 nuts and LocTite)

- Tape (I used Gorilla Tape but blue painters tape should work.)

Print instructions:

These hinges need a well-tuned printer. Your XY print tolerance is VERY important. I suggest you test your printer, filament and settings on this tolerance test piece . I have provided two sets of print files that are designed with a 0.2 mm and 0.1 mm air gap between the moving parts. On request I will publish other variants.

- Material is your choice.

- I tested PLA, ASA and PETG. PETG was most likely to get stuck during the print and break.

- Many other users have used ASA, ABS and PLA with great results. Others have used PETG with mixed results. (See comments & makes for examples.)

- Use three or more perimeters.

- Support material is not required. hard to believe but it’s true.

- Use small layer height 0.2 mm recommended.

- Infill - Gyroid 15% or more for the hinges and 50% or more for the Nut trap.

- Set your filament “Extrusion Multiplier” a little low. 95% (.95) is usually good.

- Use "Classic" Wall/perimeter generator (required. See details below.)

- I used a .6 mm nozzle.

Classic Wall/Perimeter Generator:

User k1-801 discovered that PrusaSlicer and Cura have an issue that causes the parts of the hinge to weld together in several places. He suggests you can avoid the issue by using Classic slice algorithm instead of the new Archane.

Quality print is key!

Here are pictures of an early prototype (blue PETG) that printed as maximum speed on the K1 max. Calibration was disabled so it didn’t turn out that great. Notice wavy walls. Those caused the parts to fuse together and they broke. The next pictures were printed slower (grey PLA) and they turned out great.

Assembly instructions:

Disassemble the Stock door:

- Remove the Door

- Remove the two screws holding the lower metal hinge into place.

- Firmly grab the door and lift. The lower hinge will slide forward and fall out.

- Lower the door to remove it from the upper hinge.

- Remove stock hinges

- Carefully lay the door on a flat surface.

- Remove the screws to remove the stock hinges.

- KEEP the small liners. You will reuse these to protect the glass from coming into contact with the M3 bolts.

Reassembly:

- Work the hinges loose so they can move freely. You may notice that the teeth from the gears have welded together in some spots. This looks like poop but it doesn't affect the function of the hinge.

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